Palmitoyl tripeptide-1
Pal-GHK, palmitoyl-glycyl-histidyl-lysine, palmitoyl oligopeptide (older INCI name), one half of the "Matrixyl 3000" blend
1What it is
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 is the same three-amino-acid sequence as GHK (see the GHK-Cu profile, #5), but without a copper ion and with a fatty-acid "anchor" attached to one end. The fatty acid makes the molecule more oil-loving, which helps it get through the outer layer of the skin; naked peptides are water-loving and mostly sit on the surface.
It was developed in the early 2000s by a French cosmetic-ingredient company as part of a two-peptide blend sold under the trade name Matrixyl 3000, paired with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (#182). The blend was positioned as a successor to the original Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, pal-KTTKS). It is now one of the most common peptides in mass-market anti-ageing products, and the research base is almost entirely the manufacturer's own dossier plus a handful of independent reviews.
It is a synthetic cosmetic molecule. GHK itself occurs naturally in plasma; the palmitoylated version does not.
2How it's thought to work
None of the mechanism has been demonstrated in human skin biopsies in a published, peer-reviewed study. It rests on cell culture and the manufacturer's in-vitro work.
3What the research shows
Fibroblast matrix production (cell culture)
Wrinkles and skin roughness (topical, blend)
Eye-area wrinkles (multi-peptide products)
Comparison with retinoids
Systemic or injectable use
4Reported side effects and interactions
Literature-reported
Well tolerated in cosmetic safety testing (patch tests, repeat-insult patch tests) at use levels. No sensitisation signal reported. Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) safety assessments of palmitoyl oligopeptides concluded they are safe at cosmetic concentrations †.Community-reported
occasional mild stinging or redness, usually attributed to the base formula rather than the peptide. Reports of "purging" are not supported by any mechanism.Theoretical. because it signals fibroblast growth, the usual question about effects on skin lesions is raised; at trace concentrations with limited penetration there is no evidence of concern, but it has not been studied.
Interactions. peptides can be degraded by strong acids and some direct-acid exfoliants; formulators generally avoid very low pH. Copper-containing products (GHK-Cu) layered with pal-GHK are commonly used together in the community with no studied interaction.
Markers researchers commonly monitor
No blood markers are relevant to a topical cosmetic peptide. Measures used in studies and by members:
| Marker | Why it's watched |
|---|---|
| Standardised photographs | same lighting, angle and distance, every 2–4 weeks; the only honest home measure for fine lines. |
| Skin-surface profilometry or 3D imaging (VISIA-type systems) | the instruments the trials used; available at some clinics. |
| Corneometry / TEWL (transepidermal water loss) | hydration and barrier measures, since much of the "plumping" effect of peptide serums is hydration. |
| Patch test on the inner forearm before full-face use, as for any new cosmetic |
Free for everyone. Safety information is never behind a paywall.
5Formulation and handling
Sold only as a finished-product ingredient; it is not by end users. Products typically list "palmitoyl tripeptide-1" and "palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7" together near the bottom of the ingredient list, which reflects the very low use concentration (fractions of a percent) rather than a formulation flaw. Stable in water-based serums and emulsions at pH roughly 5–7. Heat and prolonged light exposure shorten shelf life. Members who DIY cosmetics report dissolving the raw material in a glycol or water phase at the ingredient manufacturer-recommended 3–8% of blend. No calculator applies.
6Commonly studied alongside
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (#182, its blend partner), palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl), GHK-Cu (#5), acetyl hexapeptide-8 (Argireline), hyaluronic acid, retinol and niacinamide in "peptide + antioxidant" cosmetic formulas.
Informational cross-links. Not stack recommendations.
7Regulatory status by region
| Region | Status (checked —) |
|---|---|
| United States | Cosmetic ingredient; no FDA pre-approval required. Anti-wrinkle claims are permitted as cosmetic ("appearance") claims only; claims to change skin structure would make the product an unapproved drug |
| European Union | Listed in CosIng as a skin-conditioning agent; permitted under the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. No concentration limit set |
| United Kingdom | Same as EU under the retained UK Cosmetics Regulation |
| Australia | Permitted cosmetic ingredient; products regulated under AICIS/ACCC, not TGA, provided only cosmetic claims are made |
| South Africa | Permitted in cosmetics (CTFA SA self-regulation; SAHPRA has no role unless medicinal claims are made) |
| Sport (WADA) | Not listed; topical cosmetic peptides are not a doping concern |
8Open questions
- Does pal-GHK actually reach dermal fibroblasts in intact human skin, and at what concentration?
- Is there any independent, peer-reviewed, placebo-controlled trial of the single peptide rather than the blend or a multi-active product?
- How much of the reported effect in product trials is due to the vehicle (humectants, emollients) rather than the peptide?
9References
- 1Lintner K, Peschard O (2000). Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. PubMed · DOI
- 2Gorouhi F, Maibach HI (2009). Role of topical peptides in preventing or treating aged skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. PubMed · DOI
- 3Schagen SK (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. DOI
- 4Errante F et al. (2020). Cosmeceutical peptides in the framework of sustainable wellness economy. Front Chem. PubMed · DOI
- 5Lupo MP, Cole AL (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatol Ther. PubMed · DOI
- 6Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A (2015). GHK peptide as a natural modulator of multiple cellular pathways in skin regeneration. Biomed Res Int. PubMed · DOI
† Being confirmed by our reviewers against current sources.
10Community
Threads and protocols are visible to members. Joining is free.
Self-reported side effects Phase 2
11Page history
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