Acetyl hexapeptide-1
Melitane (trade name), MSH-mimetic hexapeptide, Ac-Nle-Ala-His-D-Phe-Arg-Trp-NH₂, also sold under hair-care trade names for grey hair
1What it is
Acetyl hexapeptide-1 is the cosmetic cousin of the melanotans. α-MSH is a 13-amino-acid hormone made in skin and pituitary that tells melanocytes to produce pigment; its "message" sits in the central His-Phe-Arg-Trp sequence. In the 1980s medicinal chemists made a far more potent version by swapping two amino acids (norleucine for methionine, D-phenylalanine for L-phenylalanine), giving [Nle4, D-Phe7]-α-MSH — afamelanotide / Melanotan I. Acetyl hexapeptide-1 takes that same modified core, trims it to six residues and caps the ends, producing a small peptide intended for topical use. A French cosmetic-ingredient company sells it as "Melitane"; a hair-care version is sold under a separate trade name for grey hair.
It is a synthetic molecule, but a direct mimic of a natural hormone, which is what makes it more biologically "loaded" than most cosmetic peptides.
2How it's thought to work
3What the research shows
Melanin production (in vitro)
Tan enhancement and skin colour (topical)
Grey hair repigmentation
Comparison with injectable analogues
4Reported side effects and interactions
Literature-reported
Manufacturer safety testing reports no irritation or sensitisation at use levels. No independent data.Community-reported
modest, slow darkening with UV exposure in some users; many report no visible effect. Occasional reports of uneven darkening of existing freckles or spots.Theoretical. this is the one cosmetic peptide in this batch with a hormone-mimicking mechanism. Systemic MC1R/MC3R/MC4R effects (nausea, flushing, appetite, blood-pressure and sexual effects) are documented for injectable analogues, not for the topical, and penetration is probably too low — but it has not been measured. Stimulating melanocytes in people with many atypical moles or a melanoma history is a theoretical concern raised for all melanotropins; dermatologists generally advise caution. Darkening of pre-existing moles would also make skin checks harder.
Interactions. none established. Pairing with tyrosinase inhibitors (brighteners) is pharmacologically contradictory.
Markers researchers commonly monitor
No blood markers apply to topical use. Practical measures:
| Marker | Why it's watched |
|---|---|
| Colorimeter or standardised photographs of a treated and untreated area | the only way to tell peptide effect from ordinary tanning. |
| Mole mapping / photographs of existing moles before starting, because any melanotropin can darken naevi and change their appearance | |
| Sun exposure diary | the confounder that dominates any pigment measurement. |
| Forearm patch test before first use |
Free for everyone. Safety information is never behind a paywall.
5Formulation and handling
Supplied as an aqueous solution, often liposome- or polymer-encapsulated; recommended 1–5% of finished product. Water-soluble; heat- and light-sensitive; added in the cool-down phase. Products are marketed as "tan accelerators", "after-sun" soothers and scalp lotions. Not by consumers. No calculator applies; this is not an injectable.
6Commonly studied alongside
Afamelanotide / Melanotan I and Melanotan II (the injectable analogues — different molecules, different risk), tyrosine (as a melanin precursor in tan accelerators), nonapeptide-1 (#188 — its pharmacological opposite), biotinoyl tripeptide-1 (#189, in grey-hair scalp products).
Informational cross-links. Not stack recommendations.
7Regulatory status by region
| Region | Status (checked —) |
|---|---|
| United States | Cosmetic ingredient; "tan-enhancing" claims are tolerated as cosmetic; any claim to protect from UV would make it an unapproved sunscreen drug |
| European Union | CosIng-listed; permitted. EU authorities have warned that topical melanotropins must not be marketed as sun protection † |
| United Kingdom | Same as EU |
| Australia | Permitted cosmetic ingredient. Note that injectable melanotans are Schedule 4 and illegal to supply without prescription; the topical peptide is a different, permitted substance |
| South Africa | Permitted in cosmetics |
| Sport (WADA) | Not specifically listed; injectable melanotans are discussed but not on the Prohibited List as of 2026 †. A trace topical cosmetic is not a doping concern |
8Open questions
- Does the peptide reach basal melanocytes in intact human skin at an active concentration? Not measured.
- Any independent, vehicle-controlled trial of pigmentation or redness? None found.
- Effect on atypical moles or melanoma risk with long-term use — unknown, and unlikely ever to be tested at cosmetic scale.
9References
- 1Dorr RT et al. (2000). Increased eumelanin expression and tanning is induced by a superpotent melanotropin [Nle4-D-Phe7]-α-MSH in humans. Photochem Photobiol. (parent analogue, injectable) PubMed · DOI
- 2Abdel-Malek ZA et al. (2009). Melanocortins and the melanocortin 1 receptor: moving translationally towards melanoma prevention. Arch Biochem Biophys. PubMed
- 3Brennan R, Wells JSG, Van Hout MC (2017). The injecting use of image and performance-enhancing drugs (IPED) in the general population: a systematic review. Health Soc Care Community. (context on melanotan misuse, not the topical) PubMed · DOI
- 4Schagen SK (2017). Topical peptide treatments with effective anti-aging results. Cosmetics. DOI
- 5Manufacturer dossier (undated). Melitane: acetyl hexapeptide-1 pro-pigmenting biomimetic peptide (not peer-reviewed). PubMed
References are being resolved to PubMed/DOI identifiers; links search PubMed for the citation until then.
† Being confirmed by our reviewers against current sources.
10Community
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Self-reported side effects Phase 2
11Page history
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