Tripeptide-1 and Tripeptide-29
Tripeptide-1: GHK, glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, "copper-free GHK". Tripeptide-29: Gly-Pro-Hyp (GPO), glycyl-prolyl-hydroxyproline, "collagen tripeptide"
1What it is
This profile covers two small peptides that sit alongside GHK-Cu (#5) in cosmetic formulas and are often confused with it.
Tripeptide-1 is GHK without the copper. In the body GHK exists in equilibrium with copper and other metals; Loren Pickart, who discovered it, argued that the copper complex is the active form and that "copper-free" GHK applied to skin simply picks up copper from the tissue. Cosmetic brands sell both forms; the non-copper version is colourless (the copper complex is blue), cheaper and less likely to react with vitamin C and acids, which is the main reason it exists as a separate ingredient. Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (#181) is the same sequence with a fatty-acid tail.
Tripeptide-29 is Gly-Pro-Hyp, the repeating unit that makes up a large fraction of collagen. Hydroxyproline (Hyp) is almost unique to collagen, so this tripeptide is essentially a "collagen signature". It appears in blood after people eat collagen hydrolysate, and it is also made synthetically for topical use. In cosmetics it is marketed as a collagen "precursor" or "mimetic".
Both are naturally occurring molecules.
2How it's thought to work
3What the research shows
GHK (non-copper), topical skin ageing
Tripeptide-29, fibroblast stimulation
Tripeptide-29, topical skin outcomes
Oral collagen tripeptides (GPO-rich)
4Reported side effects and interactions
Literature-reported
Topical GHK and GPO are well tolerated in cosmetic testing; no sensitisation signal. Oral GPO-rich collagen is generally well tolerated with occasional GI upset.Community-reported
copper-free GHK is often chosen precisely because it does not sting or stain like injectable or high-strength GHK-Cu; few complaints. Tripeptide-29 serums: none notable.Theoretical. none specific. Fish- or bovine-derived collagen tripeptide raises allergen labelling issues in food products, not in synthetic cosmetic GPO.
Interactions. non-copper GHK is compatible with vitamin C and acids where GHK-Cu may not be; this is a formulation convenience, not a safety issue.
Markers researchers commonly monitor
No compound-specific blood markers for topical use. For oral GPO-rich collagen, trials measured skin hydration and elasticity, not blood values. Practical measures:
| Marker | Why it's watched |
|---|---|
| Standardised photographs every 2–4 weeks | |
| Corneometry / elasticity (cutometer) | the usual cosmetic trial endpoints. |
| Serum copper is not relevant for non-copper GHK at topical doses (contrast with injectable GHK-Cu, #5) | |
| Forearm patch test before first use |
Free for everyone. Safety information is never behind a paywall.
5Formulation and handling
Both are water-soluble powders used at fractions of a percent to a few percent in water-based serums; both are heat-sensitive and added in the cool-down phase. Tripeptide-1 (non-copper) is colourless and does not discolour with ascorbic acid. Members who DIY report dissolving GHK in distilled water or a glycol at 0.1–1%, refrigerating, and using within a few weeks; this is community practice, not a tested protocol. No calculator applies for topical use; injectable GHK without copper is not a documented practice and is not covered here.
6Commonly studied alongside
GHK-Cu (#5, the copper complex and the main evidence base), palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (#181), collagen peptides (oral), vitamin C derivatives (GHK compatibility rationale), hyaluronic acid.
Informational cross-links. Not stack recommendations.
7Regulatory status by region
| Region | Status (checked —) |
|---|---|
| United States | Both are cosmetic ingredients; GPO-type collagen peptides also sold as dietary supplements (GRAS/self-affirmed collagen hydrolysate) |
| European Union | Tripeptide-1 and tripeptide-29 CosIng-listed; permitted. Collagen hydrolysate is a permitted food ingredient; novel-food status of isolated synthetic GPO as a food is unclear † |
| United Kingdom | Same as EU |
| Australia | Permitted cosmetic ingredients; oral collagen regulated as food or listed complementary medicine depending on claims |
| South Africa | Permitted in cosmetics; oral collagen sold as a food supplement |
| Sport (WADA) | Not listed |
8Open questions
- Does copper-free GHK on skin become GHK-Cu in situ, and does it then match the copper complex's effects? Argued, not shown.
- Is topical Gly-Pro-Hyp absorbed into the dermis at all? No penetration study found.
- Any independent, placebo-controlled trial of either peptide alone as a topical? None found.
9References
- 1Pickart L, Vasquez-Soltero JM, Margolina A (2015). GHK peptide as a natural modulator of multiple cellular pathways in skin regeneration. Biomed Res Int. PubMed · DOI
- 2Pickart L, Margolina A (2018). Regenerative and protective actions of the GHK-Cu peptide in the light of the new gene data. Int J Mol Sci. PubMed · DOI
- 3Shigemura Y et al. (2009). Effect of prolyl-hydroxyproline (Pro-Hyp), a food-derived collagen peptide in human blood, on growth of fibroblasts from mouse skin. J Agric Food Chem. PubMed · DOI
- 4Ohara H et al. (2010). Collagen-derived dipeptide, proline-hydroxyproline, stimulates cell proliferation and hyaluronic acid synthesis in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. J Dermatol. PubMed · DOI
- 5Yazaki M et al. (2017). Oral ingestion of collagen hydrolysate leads to the transportation of highly concentrated Gly-Pro-Hyp and its hydrolyzed form of Pro-Hyp into the bloodstream and skin. J Agric Food Chem. PubMed · DOI
- 6Proksch E et al. (2014). Oral supplementation of specific collagen peptides has beneficial effects on human skin physiology: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. PubMed · DOI
† Being confirmed by our reviewers against current sources.
10Community
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Self-reported side effects Phase 2
11Page history
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